Scandinavia Tour

2nd - 19th September 2024

Beaver Lodge on the bank of Lake Kloten, Sweden
Beaver Lodge at Lake Kloten, Sweden

Scandinavia is a region I've wanted to explore for a long time but never got round to... but with the school holidays over and Autumn approaching I finally packed the campervan and set off. This trip was more about exploration than serious photography, but of course I had my cameras with me in the hope of finding some cool wildlife in the huge national parks and forests that cover much of the region... I was naively unprepared for the dark reality of the Scandinavian attitude to wildlife.


Dovrefjell National Park, Norway

After two-and-a-half days driving through first England and then Holland, Germany and Denmark, I finally reached Norway with its wide-open spaces and beautiful National Parks. Initially I was puzzled at the lack of wildlife, but the reason soon became clear... teams of hunters with their boisterous packs of dogs were everywhere. Apparently just practicing, as the hunting season hadn't even started!

I'd booked a moose hide in Rondane National Park but turned up to find a local farmer with a tractor working right in front of it. I told the hide owner, expecting a refund, but was just told that it happens sometimes... not a good introduction to wildlife-watching in Norway.

My next stop, two hours further north at Dovrefjell National Park was a definite improvement. Here I'd booked a 'safari' to see Europe's only population of musk ox, and this time I wasn't disappointed. I wasn't completely happy with how close the guide insisted taking us since the oxen were clearly disturbed by our presence, but they're magnificent beasts and it was a great to see them in their natural habitat.

I spent a couple of days exploring the area but apart from a few moose in nearby Fokstumyra Nature Reserve, there was very little to be seen, so I headed across into Sweden in the hope of better results there.

Musk Ox (Ovibos moschatus) in Dovrefjell National Park
Musk Ox (Ovibos moschatus)


Kungsberg & Karbole, Sweden

Thankfully, there was an immediate improvement on crossing the border. With a lot more forest, I saw red squirrels, roe deer and European hare as well as a pair of black grouse. I'd booked my first night in a bear hide run by wildlife photographer Sara Wennerqvist (www.wildnordic.se) and this time the facilities and organisation were excellent. It was very late in the season with night falling early, so I didn't have high expectations and although there were lots of nice birds and red squirrels there was no sign of a bear. Then... just as night was falling John and Marlise who were sharing the hide with me spotted a shy youngster peering at us through the gloom!

I spent the next night in a different hide with again lots of nice birds and squirrels, and this time a nice but brief view of a Eurasian badger drinking at the pond.

From Kungsberg I headed three hours north to Karbole where Marcus and Sigrid of Wildlife Sweden (www.wildlifesweden.com) run a superb floating hide in a local lake. Again, it was very late in the season to see mammals, but I was lucky and caught a brief glimpse of my first ever wolverine as it galloped along the lake shore at dawn.

Red Squirrel (Sciurus vulgaris) running across some rocks
Red Squirrel (Sciurus vulgaris)

Brown Bear in the forest at Kungsberg Eurasian Nuthatch (Sitta europaea) in a Swedish Forest
Brown Bear (Ursus arctos)
Eurasian Nuthatch (Sitta europaea)


Buck and Doe Roe Deer (Capreolus capreolus) couting
Buck and Doe Roe Deer courting (Capreolus capreolus)



Malingsbo-Kloten Nature Reserve, Sweden

On the way home I decided to stop for a few nights in the Malingsbo-Kloten Nature Reserve, in the hope of getting some views of beaver and moose. I stayed in the campsite at the excellent Kloten Nature Resort (www.klotenresort.se/en), run by conservationists Tiziana and Mats Corneliuson. There are lots of trails through the forest and you can rent canoes to explore Lake Langvattnet, and there are also moose and beaver safaris available from Nordic Discovery (nordicdiscovery.se/sweden/) who's canoes can be used on Lake Kloten to the south.

I spent a very enjoyable few days canoeing around the lakes, and following the advice of Tiziana and Mats got some excellent views of moose and beaver. Unfortunately, in the early morning when the animals were active there was heavy mist which made photography very difficult but it was still a pleasant, relaxing visit before starting on the long drive back home to Wales.

 Eurasian Beaver (Castor fiber) feeding Male Moose (Alces alces) Malingsbo-Kloten Nature Reserve
Eurasian Beaver (Castor fiber)
Male Moose (Alces alces)


I'd always viewed Scandinavia as a very modern region of the world, with high moral values and a caring society, and I have to admit the out-dated, brutal attitude to wildlife came as quite a shock. The scenery in Norway is superb, but its a stark, barren region and with the possible exception of the far north, not somewhere to go to see wildlife. I saw more hunters than animals and no one I met saw any problem with that. Sweden was much better. Although a frightening number of wild animals are killed each year (see below), the population levels are a lot higher and I met lots of people who are fighting against the annual mass slaughter. I would certainly recommend visiting people like Wild Nordic, Wildlife Sweden, Kloten Resort and Nordic Discovery (links above) as they all provide an excellent experience and are dedicated to preserving local wildlife... and the more visitors they get, the stronger their case. I'd also recommend contacting Gina at Wild Sweden (www.wildsweden.com) who is very efficient and helpful. Despite the limited photo opportunities, I thoroughly enjoyed my tour of the region and I will return at a more suitable time of year to support those fighting on behalf of the wildlife and hopefully get some decent photos. See below for some frightening statistics on hunting in Scandinavia.

Mammal Species Seen

Norway

Moose (Alces alces)
Musk Ox (Ovibos moschatus)
Tundra Vole (Alexandromys oeconomus)


Sweden

Brown Bear (Ursus arctos)
Wolverine (Gulo gulo)
Eurasian Badger (Meles meles)
Moose (Alces alces)
Roe Deer (Capreolus capreolus)
Brown Hare (Lepus europaeus)
Eurasian Beaver (Castor fiber)
Red Squirrel (Sciurus vulgaris)


Hunting in Scandinavia

In the UK and much of Europe, killing animals for fun is no longer considered an appropriate hobby by the majority of people, so it came as a bit of a shock to discover just how much it still goes on in Scandinavia. There are attempts to justify this in terms of providing food, managing the environment or keeping people safe, but Norway and Sweden are among the world's wealthiest countries and there are many much poorer nations that manage large mammal populations very effectively without having to resort to these extremes. In reality its about wealthy, privileged people who enjoy going out and killing animals for sport.

Below are totals for the 2023-24 hunting season. Numbers are much higher for Sweden which reflects the higher population levels. Some species are declining, but most populations are fairly stable. The killing isn't eradicating species, it's maintaining artificially unbalanced ecosystems to maximise hunting opportunities. By killing most of the predators they ensure there is very little predation so there are large numbers of herbivores available to be killed.

Norway

Invisible text

Sweden

Roe Deer 32,900 Invisible text Roe Deer 113,446
Moose 26,007 Invisible text Moose 100,000
Red Deer 52,490 Invisible text Fallow Deer 35,592
Red Fox 19,610 Invisible text Red Fox 65,707
Mountain Hare 14,310 Invisible text Mountain Hare 20,738
Eurasian Badger 2,460 Invisible text Eurasian Badger 26,673
Pine Marten 3,430 Invisible text Pine Marten 9,580
Beaver 1,330 Invisible text Beaver 6,855
Minke Whale 507 Invisible text Polecat 2,932
Brown Bear 9 Invisible text Brown Bear 722
Wolverine 100 Invisible text Wolverine 100
Wolf 25 Invisible text Wolf 57
Lynx 73 Invisible text Lynx 188
Wild Birds 500,000+ Invisible text Wild Birds 500,000+


Source and Accuracy of the Statistics

Figures for Norway were taken from official statistics which are available online and should be very close to the true numbers. All wild animals killed in Norway have to be reported and with hunting widely accepted by the population and taking place so openly there's little reason for hunters to risk losing their licence by failing to report.

Sweden doesn't publish hunting statistics publicly and there's no requirement to report the killing of most species, so the figures above are estimates taken from various published scientific papers. Hunting is also more controversial in Sweden and there are certainly hunters that break the rules (e.g. killing mother bears with cubs and using drones to drive them into the open) so it's very difficult to be sure how accurate the figures really are.


Mother and calf moose (Alces alces) grazing
Mother and calf moose (Alces alces) at Fokstumyra Nature Reserve